FAQ

Q. Why train branches to a 45 and a 60 degree angle?
A .To aid in proper development and the setting of fruit.

Q. When is the proper time to prune fruit trees?
A. From early December to March.

Q. Should I use tree paint?
A. No, tree paint inhibits natural healing of cuts.

Q. Can I use any type of tool to prune my tree?
A. No, use by pass types of tools. The anvil type pruners crush wood before they cut.

Q. What is the sign of a healthy tree?
A. Good leaf color, good shoot/branches growth.

Q. What steps should I take for a tree that’s been improperly pruned?
A. If the tree has been severely topped, choose 1-2 limbs growing from the stubs and
start training. Do not fertilize as the tree is already over invigorated.

Q. What are the general rules for pruning?
A. Prune young trees lightly, prune top portion more than lower portion to allow in
sun light and air.

Q. How do I keep a tree from growing too large?
A. By using heading cuts back to an outward growing branch. This branch should be
one-half the size of the branch you are removing.

Q. How do I remove a large limb correctly?
A. Use three cuts, first undercut 1-2 feet out from the parent branch on the trunk, the
second cut is made on top out from the undercut, cut all the way through. The last
cut will be to remove the stub.

Q. Are fruit trees hard to grow to successful fruit bearing trees?
A. Fruit trees are fairly easy to grow to bear fruit. Proper pruning, water and selection,
along with a sound fertilizer program is all that is needed.

Q. How much should I water and how often?
A. This depends on soil type and where you live. A rule of thumb is once a week, with
slow running water applied for one hour. Sandy soil may require watering two
times a week.

 

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